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The Mur Pen Clegir area remains crag of the moment with lots of folk turning up for a look and more new lines falling.
On Saturday evening Gav Foster nailed the powerful and slappy sit down start to Pork Scratchings. The first move requires flexible hips and not a little burl. By the time Gav had sussed out the sequence the light was fading and he had one final go in almost darkness, just managing to free style his way through with a few wild moves.
Si Panton also cleaned up a neat little problem over on the far left of the bay. This Little Piggy V4/6B starts in the dip just right of the short steep aręte and just left of a dirty crack (which is out of bounds). A sidepull and an edge lead up to another edge and a pop for a juggy boss.
Now that the info has been published there has been a retro claim on all the major stand up lines (but not the sitting starts). Two or three years back Dave Simpson and friends got stuck in and it seems that Martin Crook also played around in this area too when he lived in Cwm y Glo (for full details of what he did we’ll have to wait as he is away on holiday at the moment).
Dave climbed Brushin the Bush, Pork Scratchings, Beer Can Arete and Pig in a Poke, and Ed Stones took the glory on Lando Mountain Man, while Liam Desroy steeled his way to the top of the superb Mur Pen Clegir [I guess you can’t win em all – Ed].
Liam, or Leeroy as he is more commonly known in North Wales has given up climbing, swapping one rock star lifestyle for another. He is now the lead singer in a metal/hardcore band called May I Play Martyr. Check him out here: www.myspace.com/mayiplaymartyr
Relevant links:
Mur Pen Clegir news item
The Snorter news item
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