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Si Panton and friends have developed a superb new area above the village of Cwm y Glo.
From the cattle grid at the brow of the hill on the Clegir road follow a grassy path away from the road in the direction of the Fricsan. After 100m bear left into a bay hemmed in by a wall; this is the harder Mur Pen Clegir section. To reach the warm up area cross the wall and follow vague paths over leftwards and drop down to an obvious wedge topped wall.
This section gets the evening sun and has a series of delightful wall problems including the highest line on the right which is Mur Moch V2/5+. It is possible to do an intense technical traverse into this at V3/6A+. There is also a good monkey up a stick line just to the right with a hidden hold up past the right shoulder. This goes at V4/6B from standing and V4/6B+ from sitting.
30m to the left there is a further trio of problems. The wall partially hidden by the bush is V2/5+, while the prominent aręte is an excellent V2/5+ and the wall just left again V2/5+.
Given the prominent, sunny position of these boulders it seems likely that somebody from Cwm will have done these before.
Back up at the Mur Pen Clegir section the difficulty level ramps up a little.
Left to right the problems are:
1. Brushin’ the Bush V4/6B stand up/V7/7A+ sds ** Left aręte on left hand block. Choice of holds and sequences, all about the same. [standup: Dave Simpson/sds: Si Panton]
2. Pork Scratchings V5/6/6C+/7A/V8/7B sds ** Surprisingly tricky – use both arętes. Project eliminate version avoiding the back aręte. [Stand up: Dave Simpson/sds: Gav Foster]
3. Beer Can Arete V3/6A ** Superb clean left aręte of main block. [Martin Crook]
4. Mur Pen Clegir V7/7A+ *** Brilliant central line on main block. Intense, technical and hard all the way. [Liam Desroy]
5. Lando Mountain Man V5/6C+ ** Thin crimps and a rockover or lurch for obvious high hold on the Pig in a Poke aręte. [Ed Stones]
6. Pig in a Poke V4/6B ** The right aręte of the main block is also surprisingly tricky. [Dave Simpson]
7. Pig Out V3/6A+ * Rock onto the hanging slab. [Gav Foster]
8. Miss Piggy V5/6C+ ** Powerful, slappy sitting start from undercuts on the right hand block. Superb! [Dave Simpson]
9. Pork Belly V5/6C Traverse the slopey shoulder before rocking onto the top. [Dave Simpson]
To view a bigger version of the topo click here.
“I spotted the main area a few weeks back while out running on a wet day. At first I thought it would give some reasonable problems up to a maximum of V2, but was quickly disabused of this notion when I came back and tried to climb them. Nearly everything in the Mur Pen Clegir area proved to be much harder than initial appearances.”
Explained Si before adding:
“I was so made up to top out on Mur Pen Clegir – you just don’t find things like that very often. It’s such a classic and unique problem. The added bonus is that this is the first time I’ve developed a crag that I could see from my house. I’ve been gazing up at this hillside for over three years – I always wondered if there would be something up there.”
Relevant links:
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