After a short break messing about with ropes and dangly metal things, Big G returns to the fold with an intriguing despatch from the front line of the ever shifting North Wales bouldering scene.

Dear NWB readers,

Though not widely known for its bouldering, the almost arbitrary positioning of Rhiwlas village on the western flanks of Moel y Ci makes one wonder if the town didn't simply grow around the well documented dome-like crags which just ‘happened’ to be found so close to its centre. Strange rituals may have been performed on these rocks - just as they are today.

Though the ‘Main Cliff’ is the big crowd puller (GR581659) with its steep and trendy ‘lower section’ (watch you don’t fall onto the old cars and items of household rubbish) there are other gems hereabouts. Towards the upper reaches of the Moel y Ci massif one may find entertainment on the central diamond shaped wall of the little escarpment at (GR 590658). The rock is very different here with pleasant crimps but of a lower standard.

Now if one departs the lower section of the main cliff and travels North West for 500m passing a wall, a further block will be reached in a pleasant setting decorated with ferns and sporting a good landing. This flat area being greatly improved by the removal of an annoying rock at its base by local youths (Frazer Ball).

Here then is the ‘boulder with one hold’ as it has come to be known (GR584664). Its ragged conglomerate surface would have little to offer were it not for the purity of the one flatty positioned provocatively at its centre, with the possibility of a lunge to the top. The essence of climbing captured in a few square metres of igneous drama. No wonder the big crags are so empty on a weekend.

Power to the brothers and sisters,

Big G

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