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Pete showing his sequence on the brilliant Anweledig 7C Photos: Si Panton




Pete on the first ascent of Balaclava 7B!

Pete sketching in the dark on Frizbee 7A+


The Blaenau campaign continues apace. Yesterday Pete Robins started off with a trip to Tan y Grisiau where he made a first go of the session repeat of Flick of the Wrist 7C/+, having struggled with it on a previous visit. He then climbed a right hand version of New Noise using the obvious pinch out right to pull on with – this went at 7C.

Confusingly there are now three different versions of this problem, all using slightly different holds for a crouching start. The original method, as shown in the film Welsh Connections, was given 8A+ by the first ascensionist, Chris Davies. This was then repeated by Dave Mason who thought 8A. Rich Sharpe and Liam Copley then found an easier sequence using a different hold slightly further out – they rated this method 7C.

Pete then raced across town to meet Si Panton and Jon Ratcliffe who were ensconced on the distinctive lone boulder in Chwarel Manod at the bottom of the incline approach to Craig Peniel.

Pete immediately got stuck into the jutting prow feature. This proved to be quite a complex and desperate challenge requiring some inventive manoeuvres and a wonderful sloping hold. After several attempts Pete finally cracked the sequence and slapped his way to victory. Anweledig rates 7C.

With only an hour of daylight left a quick dash up the incline to the main Peniel boulder ensued. Pete went straight for the obvious challenge of the highball face left of the big diagonal crack (which is actually called: This Way Inclined).

After a few abortive goes Pete made it to some good holds high on the face. From here a slightly committing pull on a nice flat edge leads to the top aręte and a high finish. Inkerman rates 7A+! and is a real modern classic.

Pete then went for the harder and bolder left exit from the good holds. Balaclava went at 7B! and gave him a few sketchy moments making the transition around the top aręte.

Although clearly knackered from the day’s exertions Pete managed to steel himself for one final new problem. Frizbee 7A+ traces the attractive finger ramp leftwards from a sds at the right aręte of the main face. An intricate and fingery sequence leads into the crack of This Way Inclined.

Some new info has come in from Dafydd Davis and Chris Davies – it turns out that Chris climbed the sds to Peniel Pincher (which should be known as Y Creigiwr) back in 2004. He also did Blaenau Nights 7B, the obvious sds line using the diagonal crimp at the left side of the Peniel Traverse (which should be known as Car Gwyllt Traverse).

Relevant links:
      New Noise news item
      Peniel Pincher sds news item