home »
  news archive »
  guidebook »
  topos & stuff »
  gallery »
  links »
  search »
  contact »
  v12outdoor »


Chris Davies powering through the roof on New Noise V12/Font 8a+photo: Davies collection



The irrepressible Chris Davies has completed yet another desperate problem; this time the action is located by the side of the dam road below Craig yr Wrysgan, which lies above Tan y Grisiau (which in turn sits above Blaenau Ffestiniog).

New Noise V12/Font 8a+ climbs the roof direct through the traverse of Geoff's Roof (see page 170 in the NWB guide) via a couple of unfeasible undercuts (1/4 first joint) on pretty steep ground.

Chris had the following to say about the line: “This is one of the best in a while for me. No siege tactics required this time, although last week I did drive away utterly dismayed at the difficulty of the crux move, and had pretty much given up doing it this season. A couple of days later, I got really pissed off at myself for being so defeatist, and so made the journey up to Tan again. This time I got psyched out of my mind, and hit the lip four times, although I could not hold it at all - that's better I thought - next session then! And so it was.”

“I managed to drag Dave Noden out from sitting in front of his coal fire, plonked him in the passenger seat of the car, thus gaining myself a fine spotter for the afternoon. Once up at the boulder, I hit the lip first time, and knew it was in the bag, but not before breaking a crucial foot hold and putting a hole in my finger tip. So, sixth go it was then: power through to the lip, match and ‘power-glide’ up the face via a crimp/flake, hit the top, run around like a nutter - dead pleased.”

Relevant links: