A group of Scouse/Chester based climbers have developed a new boulder down at Pigeon’s Cave on the Llandudno Ormes. Ben Farley, along with Matt Donnelly, Simon Peters, and Dave Deary share the honours on the first ascent front.

The topo to the right shows all the lines, however Matt Donnelly did climb a further link: Unit 731 V8/7B starts up Rinse It Out, then reverses down In the Mix, before finishing up Problem 2.

Ben explains:

“Originally the block had a deep pit underneath it, giving the problems slightly lower and less contrived starts – as well as a much scarier feel. However, wave action over the past year has shifted some large blocks into the pit and made the first moves of the harder problems more awkward. Unit 731 is particularly affected and unrepeated since the changes. Rinse It Out is a touch harder to start and In the Mix is hardly affected really. “

”To get to the boulder, drop down into Pigeon’s Cave, cross the beach and get up onto the tidal platform as if heading to the boulders. Walk past the obvious arête of Lincoln Hawk V5/6C and the boulder is just next, with the climbing on the steep face round the corner. All problems go from sitting and a couple of mats are definitely advised as the landings are a bit treacherous.”

“Roughly 3m to the right on a slightly higher level is a steep, blunt prow, which is about V4/6B from a low sitting start. As you walk along the platform, heading north towards the boulders, there are lots of easier walls, some highball and all with nice flat landings.”

Relevant links:
      Lincoln Hawk news item