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Owen McShane repeating Retro Clam V6/Font 7a photo: Ben Farley


Ben Farley on Lincoln Hawk V5/Font 6c photos: Owen McShane


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Ben Farley grabbed a couple of new, or at least unclaimed lines at Pigeon’s Cave on the Ormes this last weekend.

“I feel a bit silly claiming these lines because surely they've been climbed before, or at least the arete near the cave probably has been. However, they are fine additions to the circuit and definitely worth recording so that more people seek them out.” Commented Ben.

On the boulders a very low pebble level allowed Ben to climb a newly exposed sitting start to the immaculate arête on the boulder adjacent to the LRP block. Retro Clam V6/Font 7a takes the obvious hanging arête line. It starts with your left hand on a lovely round scoop/pocket before moving up and right, following slopers and sidepulls up the rightside of the arête - a real stunner according to Owen McShane who made a quick repeat.

Ben also climbed the obvious arete on the flat tidal platform just right of Pigeon's Cave (facing in) from a sitting start. Lincoln Hawk V5/Font 6c goes as follows: rock up onto the ledge, pinch the arete and make a big, rather morpho move to a good sloper on the lip (jump if you are short). Match, pull up, shuffle leftwards a bit on rough slopers, and then mantel onto the slab rather precariously. As Ben points out, this is: “Really good stuff, but certainly needs pads and spotters on the hard landing."

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