Young Josie Ball has climbed Midget Gem V5/6C, a new traverse line on a boulder in Sling, Tregarth.
“It’s a cool, low traverse with a slappy and complex sequence moving round a bulge; quality moves and fun for the tall!” Enthused Josie.
It is found by going up the road in Sling past the play park on the right and up a bit more to a track and footpath on the right. Follow the track to the boulder which sits over the wall in front (reached through a kissing gate). Start sitting on the left of the boulder, left hand in a crack, and then traverse rightwards round the bulge, and along to a rock over finish using a small pocket.
There are more problems over the moor and up to the right. A 10 minute walk will bring a view of Pentir and some nice problems on great rock. Gobstopper V2/Font 5+ (V3/Font 6A without sidepull) goes up the centre on small pebble holds and edges. The arete is V0/Font 4 and the crack between Gobstopper and the arete is V1/2/Font 5/+. On the left is a short powerful V3/Font 6A+ sitting start problem (start in the pit). And lastly, round to the right is a scary V2/3/Font 5+/6A which tackles the scoop and rib.
These boulders are close to the Violent Snatch slab in Rhiwlas; see the link below.
Relevant links:
Violent Snatch news item
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