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John Maskell on Anaconda (V8+/9) (photo: Graham Desroy)


John Maskell a little higher on Anaconda (V8+/9) (photo: Graham Desroy)

On Saturday 11th December Mark Katz dispatched a much sought after line, namely the extended sit down start to Gav Foster's minor classic: Mutant Child.

A few years back a low start at V8 was added by either Patch Hammond or Nige Harris (who did the actual first ascent is uncertain), but extensive groundwork improvements revealed a much lower starting position (right hand on lowest sidepull, left hand on edge on arete), and a number of new moves.

Conditions on the day were poor, but damp holds were not enough to stop the Katz steam train from puffing and slapping his way to victory.

The problem revolves around a steep arete, scaled via a sustained series of slappy 'monkey-up-a-stick' moves.

As for the grade: V8+/9 seems a likely assessment, but confirmation will only come with a 'dry' ascent. (NB. There is an irritating line of drainage through the problem.)

Mark has suggested the name Anaconda for the full sitting start ascent.

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