Never the most popular of the Tremadog crags, Craig y Gesail is nowadays even more devoid of visitors; such is the magnetic pull of the indoor walls . Nonetheless a few old blokes are keeping the dream alive by thrutching about in the boulders beneath the crag proper. Big G is one such fella:
Dear NWB readers,
Just as boulderers find the gaps between bouldering generally frustrating, problematic and baffling - so it is here - that the actual gaps between boulders present the most compelling difficulties.
Go you, up into the rather stumbly and holey terrain at the right hand end of the rocks below this old school Tremadog crag, where they creep into the trees.
Here ancient oaks fan the two obvious inclined blocks in regal splendour. And where they gently touch each other beyond public view in an eternal cwtch there is a feature, a thing, a sort of jammy-roof-thing if you will.
It is hard to determine whether the crack - if it is a crack -should be traversed from east-to-west or back, but somehow east-to-west feels best, so let that be written in stone.
The crack has a very good landing which is neat because that is where most suitors will find themselves - swift as a doubt. Spotters should be vigilant. ‘Safety is no accident’
It stays dry in light rain, which will inevitably pull the crowds.
It is smooth and harsh, inviting but fierce.
A contradiction- fest.
It will call for a ‘Them That Are To Come’ type; some muscled yoga freak or maybe a small-handed wee girl with limbs taped like a mummy, or a long-legged person who can hang cleverly from their feet.
People with limited climbing ability but really small heads may be in with a chance.
Hard to say.
Even harder to do.
Who feels the most; the jammer or the crack?
Love, Big G