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Pete latching the notch on Squash 7B Photo: Si Panton

More dolerite action on the Lleyn: Pete Robins finished off his Bytilith Wall day with a visit to the Clwt y Fiaren boulders on the hillside below the Mynydd y Graig ridge at Rhiw.

Firstly he managed to climb the excellent Berrial without the very helpful foot block at the start. This boosted the difficulty from 7Aish to a feisty 7B.

Pete then tried the obvious direct version of Berry Head. After much head scratching he finally opted for an all out slap for the notch. Squash rates 7Bish, but is very cruxy.

There were a few repeats of the superb Berried Alive from Pete and Si Panton using various different methods. First ascentionist, Owen Hayward, had suggested that the grade may be quite height specific, and it seems this is true. Pete thought maybe 7B, but Si reckoned for his height and reach (just under 6 foot with a plus three ape index) 7A+ was more likely. It is clearly much harder, i.e. 7B+ for short climbers.

A chance meeting with a local farmer on the way back to the van revealed a hitherto unknown history of the boulder cluster. Apparently Clwt y Fiaren is the last place in Wales where wild cats were known to have lived, and that it is known locally as the Cat’s Lair.

Relevant links:
      Berry Head news item
      Clwt y Fiaren news item