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Jack Rattenbury demonstrating his splendid new problem: Ratt Roof 7B/+ Photos: Si Panton


Yesterday Trefriw local, Jack Rattenbury completed his roof project on the Crafnant boulders. Ratt Roof 7B/+ tackles the main line through the obvious roof opposite False Start (and about 40m down the hill from the Wonderwall boulder). This is yet another quality problem to add to the growing roster of classics in this superb boulder field.

The problem starts low with a right hand on the obvious good hold and left on a low fingery undercut; make a hard slap out left to a splayed pinch (this move is best done with no pad or a thin spot pad) then tick tack up to the sloping shelf in the centre of the roof. From here lurch out right to a good finger edge and rock up on the shelf for a slopey lip encounter. Finish up left on the summit slabs.

Last year Dave Noden climbed two other good lines on the same roof. Phantom Power 7B+ pulls on as for Ratt Roof but heads up for a move before making an optimistic swing rightwards to the sloping shelf out on the lip. Pull round onto the upper slab.

Poly the Filla 7A+ takes the next line just to the right and also features a rightwards lurch to a sloping shelf, followed by some grappley moves to get established on the slab.

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