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George Smith (wearing 'Bill and Ben' sun hat) testing the friction coefficient on Standing Loon Only (photo: Andy Newton)


Another problem in the same area... (photo: Andy Newton)

George Smith has succeeded where many notables (including Johnny Dawes, Paul Higginson and dark horse Noel Craine) had failed: Standing Loon Only takes the obvious slab line in the cluster of boulders on the western flank of Moel Siabod.

"...extreme padding, faith smearing - all above a good landing; a superb problem. There are also about 20 other problems in the vicinity." George claims that modesty forbids him from attaching an ego boosting grade to his test piece: "I don't really understand it, I'm normally really shit at slabs!"

Access: Park in layby on the Capel side of the Pen y Gwryd hotel, cross the fence via the stile and follow the fence line across the hillside, before bearing East into the boulder field at the top of the small cwm.(OS ref. 675 551)

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