Craig y Llyn continues to provide quality first ascent action. A visit this afternoon from James Lillie, Simon Panton and Andy Godber reaped yet more quality variants and links on the Voie Normale face.

Last week Si had snapped the main foothold off the crux of Voie Normale and thought it would now be harder. It turns out that another smeary nubbin further left worked too and the V7/7A+ grade still applied.

James then went for the obvious right hand version of Voie Normale, powering up from the undercut to a small crimp on the right and then blasting straight up to the flatty on the original problem. Abnormale rates V8/7B+ and features a proper old school 7a move.

Si then linked the Voie Normale start into the crossover/slap finish of Alice. This went at V7/8/7A+/B.

“Although Voie Normale sds is the line of the face this actually gives the best climbing with the most sustained difficulties. It’s a brilliant link!”

Said Si, before adding:

“Abnormal is superb too; the crux pull is a fierce cellar board style crank. James was on fire and managed to latch the flatty second go. All that Indy Wall training is definitely working!”

To finish off James then nailed the obvious Abnormale – Alice link - this also rates V8/7B+.

Relevant links: