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Si Panton grabbed a quick hour at the Craig y Llyn boulders this afternoon, as he explains:
“I started off by doing the aręte sitter on the main block which I hadn’t done before – this is ace and probably V4/6Bish once you get the right sequence. I then snapped the crucial small foothold of Voie Normale sds – I was wearing a new pair of shoes which must have loaded it in a different way. Anyway the sitter is now harder and certainly back to at least its original V8/7B grade and Alice will be solid V7/7A+.”
Si finished off by doing Alice High V6/7A, which starts as for Alice and climbs up through the crux of Voie Normale to the high shelf. A rightwards traverse then leads into the top of the aręte.
The previous week Olly Cain added a harder variation start to Alice: pull on hanging the two obvious slopers and sling a heel hook up on to the lip of the steepness, then continue as normal.
Relevant links:
Alice news item
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