Calum Muskett has developed a new micro venue in the Bethesda area. Afon Caseg Gorge is very close to the Braichmelyn boulder – a visit to both can easily be combined.

1. El Pablo V4/6B+ ** - A cool problem climbing the biggest and smoothest wall. Start with an obvious side-pull for your left hand and a crimp on the rail for your right. Monkey up the wall on superb side-pulls to reach a jug rail. Climb up direct to an unnerving finish.

2. Pools of Bethesda V7/7A+ ** - From the same start as El Pablo move up and right to gain the triangular hold with your left hand and side-pulls for the right. Make a difficult move back left for the jugs and finish as for El Pablo.

3. Ceunant Groove V2/5+ - The obvious groove to the right is climbed to an exciting reach for the tree to finish.

4. Undercurrent V3/6A * - The left hand side of the undercut slate wall is climbed from a sit start to an exciting highball finish on directional holds.

5. Undertow V4/6B+ * - Tackles the main bulge to the right of Undercurrent to a highball exit.

6. Ravine V5/6C+ * - To the right of the Undertow is a bulge of rock. From a sit start beneath the bulge, left hand on a crimp rail and right hand in a low crack, make some powerful moves up into and finish as for Undertow.

7. Wild Water V6/7A * - From the same start as Ravine, make some powerful moves up directly to a good hold in the break trending up and left to finish as for Undertow.

Expect some seepage after rain, and do bear in mind that the top outs will be much easier after a couple of days of good weather. The crag receives some sun most of the day; morning and evening being the best time for a visit.

Approach: (5 mins) Park as for the Braichmelyn boulder and follow the same route to the house at the end of the side-road. A path leads through a gate to the left of the house; follow it for a short distance until a gully can be seen on the left.

Calum has also climbed a couple of variations at Braichmelyn itself. Shooting Star V7/7A+ starts as for Superstar (i.e. straight up from the start of The Ramp) but heads right from the pair of crimps (instead of left) to reach better holds and a highball finish.

And lastly: Bonjour Mademoiselle V8/7B is essentially a harder version of Au Revoir Cont. From the sit start on the arête traverse into and finish up Spring Juice with sustained interest.

To see a full size version of the topo click: here.

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