Rich Ames has completed his long term project on the Jerry’s Roof block at the Cromlech boulders in the Llanberis Pass. Worzel Gunnage V12/8A+ starts as for Jerry’s Roof, but then breaks upwards left of the normal finish. Instead of grabbing the slopey pinch on the crux with left, take it with your right and match. Then go directly up via a very poor left hand press/crimp in a large depression, followed by a snatch for a good crimp/pinch up and right, before finishing straight up.

The finish is in fact the speculative top rope line described as Bus Eliminator in the bouldering section of the 1997 North Wales Limestone guide.

Rich climbed the stand up line last September at V10/7C+, then returned last week to finish it off with full link from Jerry’s Roof.

“It’s taken over three years to do and I might have used some whack beta! Be good to get some strong locals to give a consensus grade. Just hope nobody else has done it already.”

Said Rich after the ascent.

As it turns out the line had been toyed with by a few of the Llanberis locals. Four years ago Adam Hocking and Dave Noden climbed a similar line just to the right as Dave explains:

“[What Rich has done] is a tight line! We tried it a bit but ended up using extra holds as detailed below. His line looks better and certainly harder.”

“The thing that we did, pretty sure it was Hock that did it first, had sloper/pinch of Jerry’s in left, pocket in right, went up to a crimp on top of the flake (that you get in your left on Jerry’s) with right hand then using the dish Rich got with his left with your left and go again to the (I assume) same hold he got with his right. Then cross to another hold around there for your right, and move left to the same finishing point. We linked this from Bus Stop at around hard 7C. Can’t remember if we did it from Jerry’s but to be honest I would expect so.”

Rich has made a film of the stand up version of the line – click on the link below to view it.

Relevant links:
      Worzel Gunnage stand up V10/7C+ film