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Sam Cattell showing the way on his remarkable new problem The Spray V11/8A Photos: Si Panton


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Sam Cattell on the superb Warm Up Wall V2/5+


Sam Cattell on the Warm Up Wall Traverse V4/6B+


Sam Cattell attempting to boulder out the start to the right hand bolted line on the red wall. The diagonal line has an obvious finishing point a metre or so above Sam's hands. It could also be done from sitting at a harder grade.

Sam Cattell and Matt Georgiou have developed a major boulder field on the West Shore side of the Great Orme. Around 40 lines have been climbed with a 'must-do' quality problem in nearly every grade band up to V11/8A.

The hardest and perhaps best line fell to Sam. The Spray V11/8A is a super burly roof problem on immaculate rock. From an obvious pull-on with large undercuts, but poor footholds, a series of excruciatingly powerful slaps lead out then left to a good hold below the lip and a finish back up right.

In some respects this is the problem that Manchester Dogs could have been if it wasn't so hemmed in by adjacent blocks. It's clean, it's pure and it has an open aspect and decent landing. The finger friendly nature of the holds is a further bonus for those looking for quality at this target grade. A truly special problem and a just reward for Sam, who has shown, over the last 10 years, admirable dedication and creativity in the pursuit of exciting new ground throughout North Wales.

Although Sam and Matt have been very busy over the winter of 2010/11 this development has not just dropped out of the sky. Various locals have sniffed around this boulder field over the last 5 years (for example, the NWB.com editor first visited 4 years), although none had the gumption to push things to a logical conclusion where the majority of the obvious lines were cleaned up and a cohesive circuit was established.

To reach the boulder field drop down from the Marine Drive to the left of Millionaire's Row (the line of well-to-do houses on the edge of West Shore) and head for the three large gun turrets close to the shoreline. From here a quick traverse leads across to an extensive boulder field guarded by a distinctive red leaning wall, a full 12m high and now project-boltedby Neil Dyer with the promise of some F8c/+ action.

There is potential here for some hard problems (stopping at drop off points) and a desperate traverse, but first time visitors should skip onwards to a neat little bay where two V2/5+ up lines and a V4/6B+ traverse provide a suitable warm up. From here exploration both down towards the water line, but mostly across the boulder field will reveal a multitude of attractive lines. The Spray is situated about half way across, on the seaward face of a severely undercut block.

The landings are of the Porth Ysgo type, so a team with lots of pads and enthusiasm will lead to the most enjoyment and least alarm. Some of the lower problems are tidal, but the majority are little affected by the sea. This is a very a sunny place and during the summer months possibly too hot for the harder lines to be done. Indeed a visit on an overcast, windy day is probably the best bet until the cooler autumn weather arrives.

More details and some photo topos will be released once Sam and Matt have thought of names for all the problems they have done. Watch this space.

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