Martin Crook has sniffed out a sweet roadside boulder in the Parc y Llys woods which sits just above the A498 road between Aberglaslyn and Prenteg. Martin made initial probings in March, picking off the following problems:

The Kraken V1/2 - the steep crack on left hand side of boulder facing the road. A cool problem from a sitter and heading left at the top.

Kung Fu V3/6A - just left of arete up to a ramp from large flat hold with feet on block at bottom to get started. Tricky finish to top out left of tree branch that is so tempting to use.

This week Martin called in a few friends, including the legendary Australian photographer, Glenn Robbins, to have a look. Ray Wood takes up the story:

"Martin and Noel had been to the boulder the previous day and spoke highly of this line of incuts up an overhanging wall close to the road somewhere in the verdant Nant Gwynant. Martin being the generous soul he is was keen to share the fruits of his discoveries and returned with us. Negotiating with the landowner, who was mending a fence across the road, was the first hurdle that needed overcoming. Next, addressing the problem from the top down, we turned our attention to the smooth and slopey top out. Adam Wainwright with gritstone in his DNA eventually showed the way. I got a sequence for the middle part and Adam climbed it from the start of Kung Fu before I then completed it starting matched on the good hold out right and low down on the overhanging wall. A memorable problem that is well worth seeking out - thanks Martin."

A note about access: the landowner doesn't want anyone to climb on any blocks situated further into the woods. The boulder (which is clearly visible from the road) can be approached from a higher footpath just before the obvious white cottage coming from Aberglaslyn direction or via a careful step over the fence - please don't break the fence down. (OS grid ref 593 444)

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