Keen explorer, Jon Ratcliffe has climbed a trio of excellent wall problems in Parc Dudley on the outskirts of Waunfawr.
The Consultant hard V7/7A+ takes the slightly high ball main line up the centre of the wall from a sitter on opposing sidepulls. This proves to be surprisingly independent once on the line, and has an awesome direct top out.
Slow Down V7/7A+ has the same start as The Consultant but diverts out right above half height with a stiff reach off the long crimp (taken with your left hand) for a good hold in the groove. A brief respite on a big flatty precedes moves back leftwards for the top.
Trigger Point V7/7A+ Do the same sitter but aim for the low juggy rail on the right that the other problems manage to avoid. Suprisingly powerful for the angle.
“I climbed Trigger Point on my first visit with Phil Targett, albeit from a slightly different start holds, as well as the other lines bar the top outs as it was wet. Phil did a V2/3 to the right off the obvious undercuts.”
Explained Jon, before adding:
“I figured out it needed a couple of dry days for the top outs so I went back the day I was due to see a shoulder specialist in Llandudno, found a better start and topped out on Slow Down, repeated Trigger Point with the new start but then had to leave to see the consultant. After his ‘kind words of encouragement’ I was fired up to go back and top out the main line; The Consultant which proved to be a little scary as it started to rain and Nel [Jon’s dog] ain't the best spotter. This would be a three star line if it were more independent. All the problems worked well and are only semi-eliminate as once your on the line that’s where you'll be heading.”
Approach details: Dudley Wall is about 6m high and is found in Parc Dudley, just outside Waunfawr on the right side of the road leading to Beddgelert. Take the left hand path once through the main gate and keep left when it forks. After 5 minutes or so you come out of the trees and the path heads straight up the hill. The crag is about 20m in front from where the path bends back right. There is a wooden crossing over the fence to the left with The Arse Drag boulder to your left. You can warm up on this traverse a little despite its diminutive size.