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John Maskell on the slope-tastic Prisoners of the Sun V9/7c Photos: Rob McEwan


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Si Panton eyeing the slap on Snowy V4/6B+ Photo: Andy Godber

Hidden in the woods beyond the Pac Man Boulder in the Llanberis Pass is a lovely rounded block of stone. It was initially discovered by John Maskell way back in October 2007. John climbed the obvious central line from a sitting start and a new classic was born. Prisoners of the Sun rated V9/7c.

Beta: pull on to the slopey ramp from a sit start (with a slopey pinch for the left hand and low side pull for the right hand) and move up powerfully for a rounded crimp for the right hand, before slapping out left for a fat sloper with the left hand. Another slap for a big sloper over the bulge and a match lead to a strenuous lock off to a a letter box in the break and an easier top out.

The line can be done from a standing start at a goey V5/6C.

Shortly after Si Panton and Streaky Desroy made a visit. Si climbed the short crack feature on the left from an obvious start mateched on the slopey boss, exiting out left. Pachacamac Crack went at around V4/5/6B+/C. Streaky then climbed a bold direct finish; easier from a physical point of view but quite scary.

Si then returned with Gav Foster and tried a line to the right of Prisoners of the Sun. Gav got close but the lads left empty handed. Vowing to return a decision was made to keep the news about the other problems quiet. Time passed and other distractions meant that a return visit never occurred.

Fast forward to early 2011 and Si mentions the boulder to Dave Noden and Jack Rattenbury who waste no time in sweeping in for a look. Dave repeats Prisoners of the Sun confirming the grade and quality. He then climbs the obvious sitting start link from Prisoners of the Sun into Pachacamac Crack. This went at V9/7C and involves a heel hook and rollover to match on the long sloper.

On the same day Jack also climbed a V3/6A problem traversing right along the obvious thin break into the top of Prisoners of the Sun.

One final mini problem, Snowy V4/6B+, was done by Si on the left. This is a sds with left: slopey arete hold, right: dink on the steep wall. Slap a hold at the left end of the thin break and finish as per the end of Pachacamac Crack.

The boulder is accessed by walking down to the path from the Pac Man Boulders (a good place to warm up) and continuing over the stile and into the woods. From here, head towards the top left corner of the woods where a rounded mossy block with a low level slopey ramp can be seen.

(Apologies to John for sitting on this for so long - sorry mate, we really did mean to go straight back. Ed.)

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