This month Big G reveals another dolerite wonder – is there no end to the flow of opportunities to climb on the best rock known to man!? Let’s hope not. Take it away Big G; we’re all ears:

Dear sloper disciples,

Many of you will have partners, kids, dogs or daring and outrageous combinations thereof. And so you will know of the wretched situation when happening upon a boulder of pivotal importance to the world climbing community toward the end of a days walk.

As you begin to caress holds that clearly need to be dry, as you fight with the conspiracy of moss and wet trainers in a feckless on-sight, you can feel the negative vibes pulling at you like extra...gloomy... gravity.

This disappointing scenario unfolded for myself, on discovering a set of jewels in the Moelwyn crown that is the cwm encircling Llyn Llagi's mirror waters. More or less the best problem in Wales stood there waiting, its top untouched. Fingers were forced into aesthetic letter boxes, clawing up through the lichen. I was pretty much frothing at the mouth. And....no. Botheration. Someone else would have the prize, on a dry day, in proper boots.

Bastards.

But one cannot keep the place secret - it would be a crime against slopers. So here are the details, my gift to the NWB.com readership:

Park in the big car park half way along the valley (grid ref: 633 483) and head back north 500m to a public footpath, which after passing two properties twists delightfully through some undulations before splurging through grossly wet tussocks passing a marvellous little ruin. Wet to the knees the ground flattens out to reveal a vista, the upper hills guarded by a perfect half circle of rock and heather ledges.

The rock hereabouts is not dissimilar to the type of formations commonly found in your wildest dreams. Jaw dropping dolerite. Boulders and short walls. Small buttresses popping up everywhere on the heathery hillside. (a perfect 5m arete takes centre stage but it was too far up). There are good slabs here for kids too.

If you wait below the cliffs for long enough you may also see the ospreys who come here on their way up to the top lake, Llyn yr Adar............It's not all bad.

Power to those of every age and gender.

Big G

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