Back at the end of August Si Panton made another quality addition to the ever expanding roster at Porth Ysgo. Watch me Jumpstart V6/7A climbs the sitting start to Problem 19 in area 3. (If you haven’t got the NWB guide handy, this is the black landward facing facet of the block adjacent to the Incredible Shaking Man block.)

Start sitting on a choice of crimps, pull up left to a pinch/side pull or a sloper then somehow connect with the sloping ramp up right, before continuing to the top of the boulder.

“This was a strange one – I had a vague memory of doing it, or at least trying it many years ago, but given the memorable nature of the crux move I must have ‘misremembered’ as George Bush/Hillary Clinton/various other American politicians once said.”

Explained Si, before adding:

“Anyway, it’s a brilliant problem. I solved it with a tricky and hard-to-land dyno, but did half suss a more static/high stepping sequence that will probably suit shorter climbers. There was some seepage on the right hand starting hold, but I managed to keep my fingers just out of the wetness.”

Relevant links:
      The Uncle news item