This letter was originally submitted by Big G back in June/July just at the end of the normal sunny spring/early summer period. We decided to hold it back until the weather shifted into a more amenable mood. Now, aside from a blast of rain last night, it seems that we might be out of the traditional summer rainy season, so here goes and fingers crossed it stays dry enough.

Dear NWB readers,

Bit of rain-ah....maybe the moment is gone, but here is an explanation of the Tubes just in case the hot weather returns.

Here we see the great explorer Crispin Waddy, who whilst engaged in a descent of the flooded Fairy Glen in a canoe (traiter) considered the possibility of a return in dryer conditions to sample the climbing. He dragged a number of Llanberisites over, all of whom claimed the place to be their own.

It is an acquired taste, the bottom bits are obviously water worn and smooth as rounded slate, the tops are mossy but holds can be used without recourse to significant cleaning, indeed some problems rely on the mosses for any grip at all!

The landings are catastrophic in the main, but this is resolved by picking a likely looking bit and arranging a top rope (less hassle then it sounds). So harnesses replace bouldering mats and you may need to get a mate to show you how to belay!

The "Turtle" pictured here is a good starting point. From the cafe at the junction with the Cwm Penmachno road, access the footpath which runs between the A5 and the river. Don’t worry about the density of the woodland, just keep looking up for power lines. Follow these down hill to the point at which they cross the river. The Turtle is waiting for you across the water.

Pretty much every bit of it has been climbed, eight problems at V0-5, even the fluffy offwidth on the right hand side. The central tube is as good as it looks. The 4c tube 5m to its left is perhaps a genuinely perfect problem.

On the north side of the river, long traverses over deep water are feasible in both directions (Dawes/Waddy) and upstream "the Tubes proper" are to be found.

Few problems will be feasible in their full glory without a heat wave.

Enjoy the oddness, otherwise what are you doing here?

Yours affectionately,

Big G

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