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The Shield V3/6A (i.e. at the back of the Truth block), with the Ysgo Flange block in the back ground.

Dave Noden on Nodder’s Flake V5/6C photos: Si Panton

A family summer holiday on the Lleyn Peninisular allowed Si Panton to make a few quick trips out to Porth Ysgo. Beavering around area two he found some entertaining new problems including an excellent slopey line on the block next to the popular Ysgo Flange.

Si explains:

“I spent a bit of time clearing the landing then got stuck in and soon realised that it was going to a cracker. Just as I was getting really absorbed a call from the ridge of the neighbouring Porth Ysgo bay signalled that time was up and that the kids wanted to go back to the campsite. I washed the chalk off, just in case someone else saw it, and then returned the next day.”

“It took me a while to suss the top section after my initial direct sequence ground to a halt inches from a crucial hold, but soon I had it all worked out, except for the first move, a very slopey and insecure slap. After some experimentation I finally nailed the move and wobbled upwards, blinded by the sun on a crucial lurch, but lucky enough to snag the slopey pinch that I couldn’t see in the glare.”

”It’s a killer problem – typical Ysgo slopeyness and intensity; strange that I’ve been walking past it all these years!”

Ble Mae Charlie? Rates around V6/7Aish (although it's hard to tell in summer conditions?). There is also a superb left hand exit along the slopey ramp, which finishes with a flick into a press move. GWP also goes at about V6/7A.

Other good titbits in this area, and particularly useful for lone visitors looking for friendly low balls, can be found on the left side of the Ysgo Flange block. The left aręte, taken on its right side goes at V4/6B+ from standing. The same aręte can be started from sitting, but rocking out left on the obvious foothold at V4/6B+, and just left again is another good sitting start, also V4/5/6B+ish (top tip: go to the slopey edge on the first move rather than the sharp crimp).

It is also worth adding that the V3 mentioned in the description for Problem 11 is actually one of the best V3/6As at the crag. The Shield (as it is now known) is pure climbing joy and even has a brief knee bar moment!

Back in the winter Si Panton climbed a previously undocumented left hand start to The Incredible Shaking Man. This enjoyable V4/6B+ starts standing down and left on the arete and moves up with a dynamic lurch to the obvious horizontal shelf which leads across right into the original stand up line.

Also back in the winter Dave Noden climbed the obvious undercut/curved flake line on the opposite side of the block to The Ysgo Flake. This superb addition goes at around V5/6C from standing.

And finally one other titbit: in area eight there is a worthwhile sitting start, moving up and left into Rice Krispy Arete – V4/6Bish.

Relevant links: