Dave Noden has cleaned up an old abandoned project at The Wave in Bethesda. The Crest sds V12/8A+ is an extended start to a line originally climbed by Adam Hocking back in 2008. Adam climbed the line from an obvious crouching start at the base of the hanging prow at V9/7C, but never went back to link the obvious low start.

Nodder had one session on the project with Adam, then returned this winter spending a further six sessions working out the desperate crux, a 7b move that he only managed to do twice.

The crouching start pulls on with an obvious crimp for the right and a slopey pinch for the left; seven moves to the top. The new sitting start pulls on with double undercuts at the back of the roof and feet on the back wall (but not on the sidewalls). Five moves lead into the crouching start, with the last being the hardest.

“It’s a brilliant problem and was a great place to escape from the crowds. Style wise it is similar to Red Baron Roof at Shipley, but harder.”

Explained Dave.

To find the problem go to the smaller buttress just beyond the Wave buttress (which is the first piece of rock you come to on the escarpment). See page 103 in the NWB guide for approach details.

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