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Dave Noden has climbed a splendid new traverse line on the Van Guff block at Porth Ysgo. Si Panton explains how it worked out:
“Went down with Nodder on Saturday, driving through a patch of rain to find some impressive waves and a dry, sunny boulder field. I spotted the potential for a traverse line linking the sitting start of VG Central into problem 6 (see page 237 in the NWB guide and the link below to the 2005 news item). After warming up and getting distracted for an hour or so by another project line, I was keen to jump on this. While I worked out the moves Nodder sat patiently enjoying the scenery. Pretty soon I was ready to put it all together and went for the link. First attempt saw me spat off and the need for some sequence adjustments. After some experimentation I’d sussed it out. Next go I got a move further, but popped off again. Two more goes and I latched the aręte, but blew the barndoor snatch to the sloper on the shoulder. Conscious that Dave hadn’t climbed for an hour I suggested that he should step forward and do the business, lest we leave the crag empty handed.”
“Dave got stuck in but tussled almost as much as me, and after he’d had 3 or 4 failed attempts at the link I decided to put my shoes back on and have one more go. This time I made it right to the last hard move, but took the hold incorrectly and floundered once more. This time my parting present was a split tip. Next go Dave nailed it with an impromptu sequence change and we moved on with fading light to try another line…”
A great little problem, very intense and sustained. Start sitting as for VG Central sds (left hand: obvious hold, right hand: higher diagonal pinch), pull up to the cluster of holds above the bulge then power rightwards across the lip of the bulge to poor holds and a slappy crux section gaining a stable position on the aręte. Then teeter carefully up right onto the slabby finish. After a bit of discussion V8/7B was mooted; feel free to downgrade, ha!
Relevant links:
VG Central sds news item
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