home »
  news archive »
  guidebook »
  topos & stuff »
  gallery »
  links »
  search »
  contact »
  v12outdoor »


Jon Ratcliffe on Franklin’s Finger V5/6/6C+/7A Photos: Ratcliffe collection


Jon Ratcliffe returned to the newly developed Benllech area to clean up a few of the outstanding lines. Sideshow V8/7B starts as for The Main Event, but stays low on the obvious line, soon reaching a distinctive Egyptian crux move. Continue rightwards along the rail to jugs. This was originally worked with a wild swing left into the finish of The Main Event, however the juggy shelf broke off leaving a line of much smaller holds.

“The crux is harder than any single move on The Main Event, but the climbing is less sustained overall.” Explained Jon.

Jon also climbed the obvious sitting start line on the leaning block situated in front and to the left (looking out to sea) of The Main Event roof. Franklin’s Finger V5/6/6C+/7A starts with a hard pull (top tip: pay particular attention to the position of your thumbs), and continues up the finger flakes to the top of the cellar board style wall. Jon also climbed a less significant stand up line just to the right.

Interestingly The Main Event remains unrepeated (except by Jon); the mooted V8/7B grade seems unlikely to stick. Whilst further repeats of Plan B and The Bonus have lead to the emerging conclusion that both of these problems are probably V5/6C.

Relevant links:
      The Main Event news item