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A shot of the crag - Danny, the left hand figure, is stood beneath 36 Chambers Photo: Chris Doyle

Danny Cattell has opened the score sheet at a new limestone crag near Tremeirchion. 36 Chambers V9/10/7c/+ tackles the slight bulge/shield feature in the centre of the wall, to the left of the big groove. From a stand start, on a flat undercut, it trends slightly rightwards and up on crimps and a lovely left hand pinch. Continue up to better holds in the groove via a slopey ramp and eventually finish on the obvious lone jug, high up on the hanging arete thing.

Danny generously deigned to mention that there are still a couple of other projects to go, most notably the sitter to 36 Chambers and the obvious crack line. The rock is first grade, according to Danny: “you won’t see much better limestone anywhere.”

The crag is located conveniently close to the A55. To reach it turn off at junction 28 (signposted for Rhuallt and Tremeirchion); at the roundabout take the third exit onto the B4529 (signposted Bodfari). Turn right opposite the Smithy Pub in Rhuallt, go under A55, and up a steep hill. Follow the road for a mile, and park in a lay-by opposite the first farm you get to on the right hand side. The crag is visible, quite clearly, from the road. The top of it is covered in ivy and brambles. Visitors should ask politely for permission to access the crag at the adjacent farm.

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