home »
  news archive »
  guidebook »
  topos & stuff »
  gallery »
  links »
  search »
  contact »
     
  v12outdoor »

 

James Lillie attempting Texan Nutjob V8/7b photo: Gruff Owen


.

Some late news from Wednesday; with wilting arms and fading light Jim McCormack managed to drag one more big effort out of himself and completed a new connection in the Breck Road area. Texan Nutjob V8/7b starts as for Texas Karaoke Massacre, but swerves right at the lip (reversing the Happy New Year start) and finishes as for the top section of Cockney Nutjob, which was climbed only one hour before.

This brings the number of lines here up to 10:

1. Empire of Dirt V7/7a+ ** Intense diagonal line leading along lip then up to finish of The Breck Road.

2. The Breck Road V5/6c+ *** Seemingly desperate crux move, but okay once you commit.

3. Burning Road V6/7a ** Powerful Burning Sphincter – Breck Road connection.

4. Burning Sphincter V5/6c ** Powerful lip encounter, with a high finish up left to jugs.

5. Cockney Nutjob V6/7a ** Sustained line weaving in and out of the hanging groove, to face an exciting finish.

6. Happy New Year start V8/7b ** Funky alternative start to TKM; gain base of hanging groove then head left along lip to same crux as TKM.

7. Texan Nutjob V8/7b **

8. Texas Karaoke Massacre V8/7b ** Another intense number building to a very wild finish.

9. Ring Peace V7/7a+ ** Unnerving lurch, followed by wild finish.

10. Swing of Fire V8/7b *** Outrageous line starting up aręte, but spanning from undercut slot to sloper rail; finishes with a wild cut loose and some snatchy campus moves to the black diagonal jug.

To view a downloadable pdf topo of the crag click on the topo link below and go to the Ormes Photo topos section:

Relevant links:
      Breck Road area topo pdf