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Sarah Daniels on Crouchathon V2/Font 5+, Milestone Buttress Boulders


Greg Chapman on the lower part of Harvey Oswald sds V8+/Font 7b+, Milestone Buttress Boulders.


...and slapping for the top on Harvey Oswald sds


Hanging out beneath Marilyn Monroe, Milestone Buttress Boulders


Jerry's Roof in the Pass on Sunday afternoon


Dave Noden, knackered, but happy after a big weekend of fun, both on the rocks and off

The 2007 North Wales Bouldering Meet turned out to be a fantastic weekend, with much fun and frolics had by all who got involved. Friday night at the newly energised Fricsan pub in Cwm y Glo proved to be a rocking affair with live music and much drunken shenanigans stretching late into the night. Visitors dropped in from the Lakes, Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Birmingham and Oxford; there was also a strong contingent of local hosts who turned out.

On Saturday the team headed out to the Milestone Buttress Boulders in the Ogwen Valley. Despite the strong sunshine and greasy conditions, the classics (Harvey Oswald V7/Font 7a+, Jez’s Arete V5/Font 6c, Pit Start V5/Font 6c+, Marilyn Monroe V6/Font 7a, Bombshell V5/Font 6c+, and the frankly ungradeable, Dangleberries) started falling thick and fast. Chris Davies made the 2nd known ascent of the sitting start to Harvey Oswald (V8+/Font 7b+), and then went on to climb a new line; see the other news item for the full details of Einstein V8+/Font 7b+. The Prow V9/Font 7c also saw a few ascents.

After baking in the sun, the decision was made to finish off with some cool and shady roof problems at the Cromlech Boulders over in the Llanberis Pass. A number of successful top outs followed on Cromlech Roof Crack V7/Font 7a+, Sleep Deprivation V8+/Font 7b+, and amazingly, given the conditions, The Sting V8+/Font 7b+! With arms duly blasted, a quick pit stop ensued at the Vaynol Arms in Nant Peris. Then back over to the Fricsan for more festival fun, including Red Stripe, an excellent dub reggae band. Check them out here: myspace.com/redstriper

The Sunday start was predictably a touch more leisurely, with some of the hosts nursing the after effects of a particularly heavy night of partying. Meeting up at the Utopia Boulder on the Wavelength hillside in the Pass, the early birds got a few problems in before the stifling humidity cracked and a 15 minute rain shower scuppered any ideas of exploring further up the hill. Adjourning to the shelter of Jerry’s Roof and the Cromlech Boulders allowed more cranking to be had. The wet tops of the boulders soon dried out and despite the heat, numerous quality problems were ascended, including James Pond V6/Font 7a, James Pond sds V8+/Font 7b+, Jerry’s Roof V9/Font 7c, Cave Route V6/Font 7a.

And soon enough it was time for people to hit the road. “A cracking weekend!” said one of the lads from the Lakes; I couldn’t have put it better myself. Thanks to everyone who came across, to all the locals who showed their faces, and to Ted and Sue for hosting such a fine mini-festival at the Fricsan.

All photos by Si Panton.

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