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Day 1: Jon Ratcliffe climbing the stand up version of Last Orders V6/7a photo: Si Panton


Day 2: Si Panton taking the pinch hold on Last Orders sds V7/7a+ photo: Jon Ratcliffe


Day 2: Jon Ratcliffe mid crux on Last Orders sds V7/7a+ photo: Si Panton

Pill Box Wall keeps on providing new problems; this time a classic and entirely independent up line. Jon Ratcliffe nosed ahead of Si Panton to take the first ascent of Last Orders, the stand up line following the undercuts and flakes just left of the Pill Box. Powerful undercut moves lead up to and past a nice fat pinch (or a nasty finger undercut thing if you must). The difficulties escalate until a final anxious move allows a good hold in the top break to be grasped. From the good hold swing up right to reach ample finishing holds above the upper bulge. Dismount onto the top of the Pill Box.

Si had originally tried the line, but he had abandoned it, not liking the finger threatening undercut hold (which, thankfully, you don’t need to use after all). He suggested that Jon give it a go, but became interested again himself when he noticed the fat pinch just below the nasty undercut beak. The fat pinch proved to be the way forward and in a head to head series of attempts, Jon got it first, with Si topping out next go.

Si had previously worked out the moves for a sitting start and the link was the next obvious thing to do. Unfortunately darkness and a slightly damp pinch hold curtailed any serious attempts, and a return visit was required the following day. Arriving back at the crag just as a squally shower rounded the headland, Si won the toss for first go and made no mistake in piecing together the extra moves, topping out moments later. Jon followed suit with an immediate repeat.

As for the grade, V6/7a for the stand up version seems about right, and perhaps V7/7a+ for the sitting start, which adds 3 moves.

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