North Wales Bouldering News ::: News Details :: Ain’t No Party sitter and direct stand up

Ain’t No Party sitter and direct stand up - 26/12/2006

Paul Houghoughi pulling through the crimpy Whisky Bitch/The Greek sitting start

Neil Dyer taking the first ‘good’ hold

Paul Houghoughi matching (one of many methods for this bit)

Chris Doyle taking the 2 finger pocket as an intermediate

Neil Dyer slapping for the right hand hold on Ain’t No Party

Chris Doyle getting ready to rock back up left (with his left in the 2 finger pocket)

A Boxing Day bonanza on the Ormes (where else) saw the addition of 2 superb numbers to the growing roster of Pill Box Wall beauties.

Firstly Neil Dyer shook off the Christmas dinner excesses to climb the rather arduous Whisky Bitch/The Greek sitting start link into Ain’t No Party. With around 12 moves of hard climbing Neil broke from his traditional grading assessment (i.e. V8/7bish) and (shock horror!) admitted that V8+/7b+ might be in order.

Just as it was going dark Chris Doyle pulled another one out of the bag when he climbed the obvious direct standing start to Ain’t No Party. This starts with a left hand in the high vertical slot and right hand gingerly crimping the tiny flake on Pill Box Wall. A hard pull on leads quickly into the original problem. Chris also managed a jumping start at an easier grade, so: V7/7a+ for the jump on, and V8/7b for the harder pull on start.

All photos: Si Panton

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