Si Panton added a new line to the Caseg Boulder today. On the Wagon V7/7a+ essentially climbs up the right side of the prow of Don’t Think, Feel. It starts sitting with feet on the wedged block under the main boulder (left hand on the good pinch at the bottom of Don’t Think, Feel), and pulls up into an undercut (right hand) and slaps a sloping boss in the groove (left hand). This is followed by a sketchy manoeuvre to get your right hand on the slopey lip, and a final slap to a good hold. Top out directly (a bit mossy), or traverse off left into the top of Don’t Think, Feel.

This might be possible without the low foot block, but at a much harder grade.

During the same session Chris Davies’ nifty V7/7a+ which lies just left of Don’t Think, Feel was improved by shifting the encroaching block to the left. This now leaves room for a more natural foot position on the second slap move. The original name of the problem: Don’t Think, Drink was missed from the guide, so this seems as good a time as any to reinstate it. The existing guide description doesn’t really make clear the exact starting position, but it seems most logical to pull on with your right hand on a high pinch just left of the holds used on Don’t Think, Feel and with your left low on the left, just right of the encroaching boulder. Depending on how you position your mats this is a sitting/crouching start. A harder version is possible if you start with a lower pinch on Don’t Think, Feel. Either way, an excellent little problem.

In recent times there have been some changes to the fence boundaries on the approach field, and the addition of a new gate, so it’s probably worth stating a new approach description:

Just as you are leaving Gerlan, take the left-hand turning (Ciltwllan), and follow it up to park sensibly at the last buildings on the road. Follow the track for approximately 100m to a major left hand bend. At the apex of the bend go through the gate on the right and follow the wall for 50m along the side of the field to another gate. Drop down to the river and choose a crossing point. The lower boulder lies 50m upstream. (NB. A tree has fallen across the river, making the traditional crossing point a little more awkward.)

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