Fresh back from a month trip to Canada and an intense week’s climbing in Yorkshire and the Peak, Neil Dyer moved quickly to make his mark in the Dinorwig slate quarries with the first solo/bouldering ascent of The Untouchables F8a/E7 7a, the notoriously desperate micro route first ascended by Johnny Dawes back in 1988.

Neil nipped up to the quarries during his lunch break from work and top roped the line. He then removed the quickdraws from the bolts, pulled the rope and went for it without any pads.

The original method involved using a very painful crimp on the right side of the arête, but Neil opted for some powerful campus moves up slopey pinches on the arête itself. He reckoned it was about V8/7b to a good hold, then a wiggy 6b move leading to a jug and easier climbing.

Needless to say, the V8/7b grade can be taken with a large pinch of salt.

Relevant links:
      Slate re-equipping campaign
      New North Wales Slate guide on its way