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Dave Noden demonstrating some classic open hand technique on the Bus Stop section of Mr Fantastic V12/8a+ (photo: Si Panton)


Mark Katz showing the way on the crux of the original Mr Fantastic (photo: Si Panton)


Jerry Moffatt cutting loose on Bus Stop/Mr Fantastic (photo: Si Panton)

Dave Noden has re-established the classic power stamina link on the Jerry’s Roof Boulder in the Llanberis Pass. Dave had come very close last winter season, slipping off on one occasion with his fingers touching the positive pocket that ends the main difficulties. The hot summer weather curtailed any serious attempts, but Dave got stuck in with renewed vigour as the autumn cool arrived. That being said, a number of re-acquaintance sessions were required before this utterly stubborn connection finally fell in to place.

Mr Fantastic links Jerry’s Roof into Bus Stop via a particularly powerful backhand sequence. It was originally made famous by Mark Katz’ bouncy ascent on the 2001 Stick It film. Considered to be V11/8a by Mark at the time, it subsequently became a defunct line when Dave Norton broke off the main foothold on the crux section. This specific section was re-climbed by a number of people, but the full link deflected all comers; it now rates a sturdy V12/8a+.

Relevant links:
      Large image in 2005 gallery