The large boulder sitting directly below the crag provides much quality rock action. Various people (Crispin Waddy, Phil Targett and Calum Muskett) have dabbled with it over the years, but an apparently unstable roof flake put paid to any further development. The flake has been glued and plenty of big lads have since heaved on it, so now seems a good time to publicise the recent developments.

In May Martin Crook added a low start to Board Stiff (6C), thus stoking interest amongst his usual associates, Si Panton, Phil Targett and George Smith. Over the summer months Si climbed several of the obvious remaining lines, including the amazing roof flake, Cariad yw’r Glud (6C) and the brilliant Defosiwn Dyfnaf (7B). Phil added a number of good lines and links, such as the original high start of Dead Ringer (6C+) (which was given a 7A low start by Si and a leftwards exit at the same grade), the direct finish to Cariad yw’r Glud (6C+) and the superb Margins for Error (6C+).

Bevan Hollingworth then swept in adding a series of powerful additions, such as Defosiwn yn Llwyr (7B), Y Pen-glin yw'r Glud (7A+) and Set Fawr y Mochyn Daear (7B+).

Lastly, Si climbed Tri Sesiwn ym Mis Awst (7A+), a stunning left-to-right traverse of the barrel face. This section of rock had been traversed in either direction by Crispin and Phil, but the lines were too high, or too eliminate. This is the golden ticket - go get them gorgeous slopers!

Approach: from the Cromlech lay-by follow the obvious low level sheep path up the valley (on the north side of the river) towards Gorphwysfa/Pen y Pass. You will reach the huge boulder directly below Esgair Maen Gwyn in a mere 8 minutes.

1. 6B+
Start sitting just left of the slopey ramp at the left edge of the steepness. A few powerful pulls lead into thinner territory. [Phil Targett 07.26]

2. Radio Bywiol 7A
Follow Dead Ringer, but from the slopey ramp roll over to take the slopey edge above the lip with your right, then snatch out left and keep traversing leftwards for a few more metres to reach jugs before heading for the top of the boulder. [Si Panton 10.08.26]

3. Dead Ringer 7A
Start low in the pit, right hand on an obvious flat edge, left on a sloper pinch at the same level. Gain the slopey ramp above and climb through the upper lip via a crucial finger jam (tape up!) and slopey edge. Continue up more easily to the top. [Si Panton 04.08.26, 6C+ ramp start: Phil Targett 07.26]

4. Defosiwn Dyfnaf 7B
A killer problem with a fierce, tensiony start. Start as per Dead Ringer, but swerve rightwards with much difficulty into Jug It. It can also be finished up Board Stiff or along the Cariad roof flake at a similar grade. [Si Panton 06.08.26, Board Stiff exit: Pete Robins 08.26, Cariad exit: Bevan Hollingworth 07.26]

5. Defosiwn yn Llwyr 7B
Start sitting, hands at the far left end of the slopey ramp. Traverse rightwards into Defosiwn Dyfnaf. 5a. Defosiwn yn Glud (7B+) links into Cariad yw’r Glud. [Bevan Hollingworth 07.26]

6. Set Fawr y Mochyn Daear 7B+
Start sitting at the base of the large roof flake. Move up left to some flatties then head left across the Defosiwn Dyfnaf ramp (hard!), finishing out left as per Radio Bywiol. [Bevan Hollingworth 18.08.26]

7. Jug It 6B
Superb, steep climbing leads to a fine exit up the wall. Start sitting at the base of the large roof flake. Move up left to some flatties then lurch up left to the jutting ledge and head up left into the top of Dead Ringers. [Phil Targett 2014]

8. Board Stiff 6C
A great problem with a punchy crux. As per Jug It to the flatties, but then make hard moves directly up to crimps and a slopey pinch. Continue directly to the top, or swerve off rightwards on the obvious traverse line. [Original start (from the flatties): Calum Muskett 2014, low start: Martin Crook 05.26]

9. Cariad yw’r Glud 6C
The big roof feature gives a fine boulder problem, and one which can be climbed several different ways. Climb the large roof flake from a sitting start at its base. Exit out rightwards, still with some difficulty, before finishing up the arête, or out right onto the slab. 9a. Direct finish 6C+ Strike a direct exit line up from the front side of the flake. [Si Panton 07.26, 9a: Phil Targett 07.26]

10. Y Pen-glin yw'r Glud 7A+
Start sitting beneath the back of the roof, facing out to the roof flake, with slopers taken as undercuts. Pull into a kneebar and climb through the roof flake into the direct finish to Cariad yw’r Glud. [Bevan Hollingworth 07.26]

11. Rapier 6A+
Start sitting at the bottom of the righthand lip of the roof. Follow the lip up until a couple of hard pulls gain good holds and an exit onto the slab. [Phil Targett 2014]

Numerous other links and variations have been done. An entertaining and pumpy 7A connects Rapier into a reverse of the Cariad roof flake, before finishing up Jug It. [Phil Targett 07.26]

12. Hen Ddynion Dall 6C+ starts as per Rapier then drops into the Cariad flake and follows the visual line of edges running out left (with the help of some slopey pinches above if needed). [Bevan Hollingworth 07.26]

On the Cromlech side of the boulder there is a long, bulging, barrel face.

13. 6A+
Start sitting at the left side of the face, left hand on a triangle pinch, right on a horizontal slopey pinch.

14. Tri Sesiwn ym Mis Awst 7A+
A superb, powerful traverse on great slopey holds. Start sitting as per Problem 13, but head rightwards across the lower part of the barrel face with a difficult and sustained sequence, eventually reaching better holds and rising up to a steadier finish along the lip. Exit up past an obvious high layaway beak. 14a. 6C+ The original easier version took a higher line, bailing along the higher ledge system. Not as good. Other variations exist, in either direction, including Eight Days in June 7B, which does the full right-to left run, staying low at the end to avoid any easier exits. [Si Panton 07.26, 14a: Crispin Waddy circa 2009, Eight Days in June: Phil Targett 2014]

15. Margins for Error 6C+
Excellent and surprisingly involved. Start sitting, left hand on a horizontal beak, right on a split backhand. Snatch upwards on a series of lovely holds. [Phil Targett 23.07.26]

Other minor up lines and traverse links are possible.

Relevant links: