Si Panton has climbed a superb new line on the ridge above Ynys Ettws in Dyffryn Peris. Ci Bach Cŵl (7A/+?) follows the rising right-to-left line on the bulging road-facing facet of the obvious boulder on the crest of the ridge.

Start sitting at the bottom of the slope, right hand in a large diagonal slot, left on a sidepull in a niche. A series of compression moves lead leftwards for a few metres, before it is possible to grab a large undercut down to the left and make a crux spin over to snag a high right hand hold. Finish leftwards round and up past the left edge of the boulder.

NB. at the start it is possible to move straight up to a higher juggy rail, but there’s no point as it soon blanks out and you have to drop back in, so stay lower using the undercut/s for your left and the obvious finger rail for your right.

“ I sussed it out last autumn and very nearly did it, but it got wet and kept seeping so I left it alone for the winter. Today it felt hard re-acquainting myself with the moves, and there is a lot of them, but then in the end the link flowed like a dream, so fuck knows what grade it is? It is brilliant though, amazing tensiony moves and dead sustained.” Said Si after the ascent.

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