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Adam Hocking demonstratingthe crux sequence of Hippocampus V12/Font 8a+, photos: Chris Davies


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Adam Hocking powered his way through a fierce traverse line on the Chris’ Kashmir Curry block, a mere 100m away from Chris Davies’ recent V12/Font 8a+ addition, New Noise, by the side of the dam road below Craig yr Wrysgan (which lies above Tan y Grisiau).

Hippocampus V11/12/Font 8a/8a+ starts sitting to the left of Chris’ Kashmir Curry on opposition side pulls by the obvious block. It kicks in straight away with two hard moves: a cross to a dirty crimp, and then a dynamic lung to a horizontal slot. Another few moves rightwards (a V7/Font 7a+ sequence in its own right) leads into Chris’ Kashmir Curry. The problem then continues rightwards to finish on jugs at the right arête.

Further down the hill (about 200m) and in the first cluster of boulders by the dam road, Chris Davies climbed a sweet stand up line: The Gout Club V7/Font 7a+. Look out for a half metre high stone wall running away from the road. This leads to a boulder with an overhanging face in a pit. The problem starts on some crimps, and is possible via two distinct methods, suiting either the tall or short climber. The landing is 'okay', as long you've got a few pads and a spotter.

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