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Holger Moeller going for it on Pantymwyn Traverse V11/8a. Photos: Si Panton




Nearly there now...just the last move of Firestarter to go.

Liverpool based German climber, Holger Moeller has completed his epic traverse project on the Devilís Gorge crag at Pantymwyn. Pantymwyn Traverse V11/8a starts on low undercuts beneath the normal start of Pantys Down, climbs out and rightwards along the lip as per Thug Mentality, before continuing all the way along the crag to reach and finish up the final moves of Firestarter.

Holger had been trying this monstrous line for a while, even adjusting to a harder sequence when some crucial holds broke. Mid day on Saturday, and just before it became too warm Holger made it to the end in one piece and Pantymwyn gained another big test piece.

On the same day Danny Cattell repeated his brother Samís Under Pressure Ė Be Ruthless link, finding a new easier sequence and reckoning that V11/8a was more appropriate.

The previous week Sam had climbed a new straight up line left of Robert Duvall. Front Range V7/7a+ish starts on the obvious jug and climbs up past an assortment of pinches, slopey edges to jugs in the high break.

Also of note for Pantymwyn enthusiasts are a few other lines and links worth doing, but where the actual first ascencionist is unknown.

1. From the sitting start right of Firestarter climb up and left taking the penultimate side pull on Firestarter with your left: V6/7/7a/+.

2. As per the previous problem but lurch left into the finger jug on Firestarter, move up and swerve left along the dinky holds into the top of Gasoline. V7/7a+

3. Start as for Firestarter, but finish left as per the high left finish into Gasoline. V7/7a+ (NB. This is mentioned in the Rockfax Clwyd guide as a V8/7b variant.)

Relevant links:
      Under Pressure Ė Be Ruthless link news item
      Robert Duvall news item