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Solomon Kemball Dorey on War of the Ring (8A), photo: screenshot from FA vid

Carreg Mianog in Dyffryn Ogwen continues to provide hard new problems. The most recent addition comes from Solomon Kemball Dorey with the excellent War of the Ring (8A). This rising aręte line can be found up the hill, about 10m from Mithrandir. It start right hand on an undercut and left on a sidepull. Work your way up the aręte via a large undercut and crimps, with a big move out to the ramps; follow these up the slab and top out.

”We made the landing slightly better, and we used four pads, but I would definitely recommend taking a spotter as well. As you climb higher and further right you move over a ledge that you would probably bounce off of and then go a further 2m down.” explained Solly.

Quick repeats on the same day came from Osian Parry and Zed Oliver-Jones, confirming the grade and quality.

There’s a few other things worth mentioning from last year. In March Tom Newman climbed Gandalf’s Sleeve (8A): this adds a sitting start to Mithrandir, starting with both hands on the left aręte.

In February Ned Feehally climbed Mr Fantactics (8A+) which starts as for Deeply Fired, but upon reaching the lip, traverses rightwards on pinches with some heels, to finish around the corner.

And lastly, in April Osian Parry added Static Rectum (7B). On the Sog Aręte block go through the cave on the right to face a wall filled with slopey crimps. Starting on jugs on the left side blast out to a good flatty/sidepull, put your heel in the break to rock over to the crimps and up the crimps to the top

Relevant links:
      War of the Ring FA vid