A few weeks ago Osian Parry re-climbed Dr Grizzly Superdirect in Cwm Dulyn after a major hold break completely changed every move on the problem. This went at 8A, but Osian had his eye on a low start which adds three moves of 7B/+ standard running straight into the hard 8A original start. This low start, which Osian has named Reu, rates 8A+.
”It took a while to figure out the beta after the jug in the middle of face disappeared. Reu is my hardest FA to date and feels as hard as any problem I’ve done. I brought Zed [Oliver-Jones] along on the day and he repeated Dr Grizzly sds, confirming the quality and grade at 8A.”
Explained Osian, before adding:
”Both Reu and Dr Grizzly sds are great sustained compression problems with the crux being in the first 3 moves of Dr Grizzly.”
Jack Palmieri raced in for a lightning quick repeat of Reu. Given the obvious quality of the problem no doubt other grade 8 climbers will be keen for a go.
When asked about the name, Osian said:
”Reu is a Welsh slang word that is only used in Dyffryn Nantlle. Kinda like ‘dope’ in America.”