Back in January Si Panton climbed a brilliant low start on the Gavís Big Problem roof below Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass. (See page 153 in the NWB guide.) Siís Roof Start (7A+/B) starts sitting at the back of the roof under the normal Gavís Big Problem sit down start. Pull on with left hand in a horizontal slot, right hand on a triangle pinch, feet on the same starting block that Hot for Teacher uses. Make a desperate slap out left to the big but very slopey hold on the lip and continue up bear hugging the stepped arÍtes to a more conventional hold. A dynamic lurch and swing out left allows a finish up the diagonal arÍte of Slimfast.
ďThis problem is so good! Perfect dolerite rock, and amazing moves. I was intending to also make the obvious link into the Gavís Big problem finish out left along the lip, but Iíve had an injured heel for the last few months and each time I try this it makes the injury worse so Iíve decided to leave it for someone else.Ē Said Si.
NB. On reflection, the most natural starting position for Hot for Teacher is left hand: fingery undercut, right hand obvious slot, feet on the low block. This is still hard and deserves at least 7A+/B. Also the Gavís Smaller Problem finish is no easier than the normal left hand finish.
Sticking with Llanberis Pass news, Si climbed the obvious stand up line right of The Wolf up below Craig y Rhaeadr. (See page 113 in the NWB guide.) Crack Fox went at 6C but the obvious sit down start will be a good challenge for board trained mutants. The rock on this is great quality.