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Pete Robins on Vinegarete 7C+ photo Robins collection

Pete Robins has spearheaded a new wave of development on a series of new coastal crags dotted along the Pen y Cil area of Uwchmynydd, the headland adjacent to Aberdaron at the tip of Pen Llŷn.

An initial discovery of the Pen y Cil sector by Andy Godber brought the potential of the area to light. Pete had also been sniffing around this part of the coast and early this year he climbed Pilgrim's Way an amazing steep 7C arete. Be warned though, the approach slope leading down to this needs to be approached carefully.

Next up Si Panton and his son, Charlie, paid a visit to Pen y Cil. The sea was pretty wild that day so they only climbed on the less exposed upper tier, picking off some good easy lines and an intense, technical traverse: Bill is Dead 6C+/7A. The waves got bigger and the prospect of being washed away into the briny saw them make a sensible retreat.

Pete subsequently made a visit to Pen y Cil with Ray Wood and Adam Wainwright, nabbing several superb grade 6 highball lines.

Attention then shifted to an even more impressive sector, Porth Dysgo (a joke that only works if you can't pronounce Welsh), closer to Aberdaron. Pete had found this but gladly shared his wares with Dan MacManus, Matt Perrier and David Fiddler. Numerous gob smacking lines were climbed, including the outrageous uber-highball bridging corner Shakira 7B+!! by Dan, and, after a few sessions, the desperate Vinegarete 7C+ by Pete.

Pete has produced a topo detailing all the main lines; see here (NB. there is a typo: the Looser Cruiser traverse goes left-to-right.)

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