After weeks of pondering, Si Panton finally allowed curiosity to get the better of him; having spent time recently working Jerry's Roof in the Pass, he found himself, in between attempts, sat on the mat staring across the river at an interesting boulder, no more than a stone's throw away on the other bank.

Checking it out last week he was amazed to discover how an apparently innocent piece of rock could yield such a mean and unforgivingly powerful traverse line. On the second visit, it went first go, but only just. Unsure of the grade, Panton turned to his rock star friend Chris Davies for an opinion. Chris promptly failed to make any impression at all, thus a suggested grade of V13 (or perhaps V7) for The Amateur will have to do until it recieves a repeat.

Remember kids, sometimes small is beautiful!

(NB. Start sitting on the left, with your left hand in the low shallow pocket sidepull and surge confidently rightwards: about a dozen short, but very slappy hand movements, a couple of smears, a toe hook, a ledge system and a slight heel hook cusp thing.)

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