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Phil Targett has developed a series of problems on The Indefatigable Boulder, which can be found close to everybody’s favourite Anglesey climbing wall.
What we have here is a vertical boulder consisting of good rock with flat landings. The top has not been cleared in order to preserve the environment and prevent unwarranted attention from the land owner. Jump off, back onto your mat, after reaching the top. It tends to stay relatively dry due to its sheltered aspect and there is the added advantage of the Indy Wall and cafe just around the corner.
Park at the Anglesey Column car park in Llanfairpwll. Walk back along the road towards the bridge for a short distance until you are opposite the entrance to the Indefatigable. The boulder is just over the fence on your left.
Please note there is no official access and keeping a low profile is essential. Be mindful when climbing the fence to not cause any damage.
The main attraction is The Crimpanzee Traverse 7A which starts sitting at the good flake about 1.5m right of the aręte. Use the flake and a layaway in the crack. Pull up to a poor hold in the crack and rock over right to gain the traverse line. Traverse right to a hard fingery finish in the corner. Avoid the obvious large break at 2/3rds height. The traverse can be reversed at 6C+/7A.
There are also a series of easier up lines and an eliminate link up: Howling Crimpanzees! 7A+. Follow The Crimpanzee Traverse to the hold in the corner but then (without bridging out to rest) reach up for the break and return taking care to not break any of the hand holds on the lower traverse.
Relevant links:
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