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Ben Farley continues to exploit potential for new lines at Angel Bay. Best of the latest bunch is a right hand line breaking out of the starting holds of Musclebound. Sick as a Dog V7/7a+ is a good, independent line, with plenty of body tension required to make the moves on nice pinches and slopers out rightwards from the starting block and then powerfully up to the large jug that Problem 4 starts from. Finish straight up the block past an obvious pocket up high.
Ben also climbed the right arete of the same face from a contrived low sitting start - as low as possible hugging the arete. “This is actually better than it appears and involves cool slaps up cool slopers to finish up the final arete of problem 4.” commented Ben.
The final addition was a sitting start to Chaos Emerald Crack. As Ben explains, “This is truly stupid, nothing like real climbing and involves a full body press/bridge to get in a position where the good holds at the start of the stand up can be reached. I however liked it very much and felt it added a grade or so to the original.”
All of these lines may have been done before, but it seems fair to flag them up for other Bay fans to go and have a look at.
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