Ashley Clarke reports the re-development of a slate quarry in Bangor. The Graveyard Quarry was climbed on fairly extensively back in the early ‘80s by various members of the Bangor Uni climbing fraternity, although nothing was formally recorded. In recent months it has seen a resurgence of interest.

The main higher-level traverse goes at about V5/6c+ in either direction. Ash also worked out a lower level right-to-left eliminate traverse, which traces an obvious line of crimpy holds (i.e. the footholds on the higher traverse line), before rising up to finish on a jug on the line of the higher traverse. The problem avoids some low ‘sticking out’ rocks at the start and some large undercuts on the left – if you stick to these rules, Low Expectations rates V8/7b.

There are also several minor straight up problems finishing on the large jugs above the main traverse line.

"This isn't an amazing area and I wouldn’t recommend making a trip out to the place, but for those living in Bangor who fancy an evening bouldering without having to drive it can be quite nice." commented Ash.

Approach:

The direct route to the bottom of the quarry can be gained by taking the road that leads down the side of the graveyard (Hendrewen Road) (off Caernarfon Road). Just after the end of the graveyard you will find a large gap in the wall on your left and a footpath leading towards the quarry. Follow this path which runs behind the back wall of the graveyard all the way along until you reach the far corner of the graveyard. Shortly after this the path forks, the right fork seems to lead to the quarry but you will quickly find it leads to the pool in the quarry and gives no access to the rock. So follow the left fork into some fairly dense bushes taking the path of least resistance until after around 15m you will come out in the open by a trail bike track. Head up hill for around 20m crossing over the bike track before heading down and right back into the trees down a steep path which takes you directly to the centre of the quarry.

The main bouldering area is on the inside of the prow which is hidden until you venture up and round it via a short but steep path which will then reveal a large rectangular area featuring one main bouldering wall.

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