The Cloggy boulder is a much discussed, but little known entity. Back in the 80s, in between attempts upon desperately thin and scary routes on the main crag, Dave Towse and John Redhead spent time working out problems on its outrageously steep front side facet. All the obvious up lines were climbed, and Dave came very close to completing the full traverse. (NB. This remains a project line of considerable difficulty.) A recent visit by Paul Barker and Mat Perrier yielded a few new lines worthy of mention. On the front face Mat bounced his way up Ug’s Dyno, a wild V7 jump to a lip jug left of the old school 6a crack line.

Around on the back face Paul pieced together a trail of slopers and crimps to make a superb right to left traverse across the lip of the steepness. “Similar to Mr, You’re on fire, Mr; 2 stars and dead good.” commented Paul on his return to the cosy confines of the Gallt y Glyn bar. Half Nelson rates V8; expect slappy moves and funky heel hook manoeuvres, all on great rock. At the left side of the face, Mat added, Full Nelson V6-ish; a big slap up from a jug to a mantel finish.

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