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Si Panton setting up for the deadpoint on Post to Wire V8 (photo: Gav Foster)

Si Panton cranked out two splendid new problems on the Wavelength hillside in one evening.

Firstly he pieced together the uphill diagonal traverse that traces the lip of the steepness on the undercut boulder on the far side of the stream close to the Wavelength block.

Post to Wire (V8) starts sitting (slopey pocket - left hand, flat edge – right hand) at the bottom right end of the streamside face. Make a series of burly pulls to grasp a two finger pocket with your right, before executing a tricky deadpoint up left to a small shield and the start of the crux proper; more powerful and insecure moves lead leftwards to a good jug and the possibility of a quick shake out. Low slopers then allow access to a final energy-sapping slap for the left aręte. All that remains is a tussley mantelshelf. About 15 moves in total, give or take a few minor shuffles.

...and, secondly Panton climbed a very intense line on another streamside boulder.

From the top of the Post to Wire boulder, head approximately 150 metres across and up towards a clean block tucked into the banks of the stream below the normal Cyrn Las path.

Elephants Forgot (V7) starts sitting on the edge of the grass bank (finger dish on lip of upper slab – left hand, low crimpy edge – right hand). A useful toe cam aids lift off; slap up to slopers and follow the lip rightwards, gradually easing to positive holds and the right aręte.

The direct sitting start line into the middle of the problem is an obvious (and obviously desperate) challenge.

(NB. In the late 90s Kristian Clemmow did climb a couple of minor ‘straight up’ sitting start lines on the Post to Wire boulder.)

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